By Denise Sattler aka Spiffyniftyriffic
This pattern is available to use for instruction and to be distributed to a group or class for learning purposes. This pattern is free, and should never be charged for in any situation.
What you will need.
Yarn: Worsted Weight (4) I used Lily Sugar’n Cream in the color Overcast
Hook: Size I or 5.5mm (Yarn calls for H hook, but using I will give it a more loose fabric)
Yarn needle to weave in ends.
The dishcloth is worked in rows, that means you turn each time you are done with a row. It is worked back and forth until you reach a square shape. This pattern should be easy to read and follow for beginners. The chain one at the beginning of each row counts as the first stitch, so when you are counting each row, make sure that you are counting that chain one as well. If you have questions please message me via Ravelry, my username is Spiffyniftyriffic, or you can leave a comment on my blog where the pattern is located: https://spiffyniftyriffic.wordpress.com/
Row 1: Chain 23
Row 2: Single crochet into the second chain from hook. Single crochet in each stitch across the row. (22 single crochet)
Row 3: Chain 1, turn your work. SC in each st across. (22 sc)
Rows 4-25: Repeat row 3.
You will know that you are done when you fold your cloth over from corner to corner and it matches up, this is when it is a square and you are done.
You can continue if you’d like and make a sc stitch all the way around the cloth or leave it as it is. This is what it looks like when you fold it and when it is done without a trim.
To make the trim:
Start where you left off on your last row. Ch 1, sc in each stitch across the row. When you get to a corner stitch, place 3 sc in it. This allows the corner to form and let the cloth have the square shape. Continue to do a sc in each stitch down the side. This will be a bit different than the top, but just place your hook where it looks like it will fit and look nice. When you get to the next corner, do 3 sc in the corner. Continue and do sc all the way around to your next corner. 3 sc in the corner stitch, then sc up the last side of your cloth. When you get to the last corner that you started on you just do two sc in the last corner since you started with your ch 1. Sl st into your next stitch and cut your yarn leaving about a six-inch tail to weave in your ends.
If you would like a shawl pattern that is easy to make please look on my blog for more information. The shawl pattern can be made into a scarf or a blanket just by adding more to the foundation chain. This washcloth could also be made into a scarf by continuing until you have it the length you desire.
Picture below shows placement of your first single crochet at the start of each row.
Ch = Chain
Sc = Single crochet
Sl = Slip
St = Stitch
~Spiffy Nifty Hoodie Hat~
Wool Ease Thick and Quick Stripes Yarn in Moonlight
Or any Super Bulky Yarn Weight (6)
Note: I used 2 strands of worsted weight together and a K or 6.5mm hook–this hat will still fit an adult, it will just be more snug and not loose. If you want to make a child version I would recommend this method for 4+ and fold the brim back and let them grow into it.
M/N Crochet Hook or Size 9.0mm
Large Yarn Needle
Chain – Ch
Double Crochet – Dc
Front Post Double Crochet – FPDC
Half Double Crochet – HDC
Reverse Single Crochet – RSC
Single Crochet – Sc
Slip Stitch – Sl st
Stitch – St
Treble Crochet Stitch – TRBL
Adult size should fit any adult due to the fact that it is a loose fit. This will also fit most teen sizes as well but if it is too large you can always fold the brim of the hat up.
Round 1: Ch 4, sl st to form a ring.
Round 2: Ch 2(DOES NOT count as stitch, here and throughout) Dc 10 times into ring. Sl st into the top of your first dc (skipping the ch 2 you made at the beginning) This makes a clean join with no gaps in the hat. (10 DC)
Round 3: Ch 2, 2 Dc in each stitch around. Sl st into top of the beginning dc. (20 DC)
Round 4: Ch 2, Dc into same stitch as ch2. *2 Dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next*. Repeat from * to * all the way around. Ending with a 2 dc. (30 DC) Sl st into the top of the beginning dc.
Round 5: Ch 2, Dc in same stitch. 2 DC in next stitch. *Dc in next stitch, dc in next stitch. 2 Dc in next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way around. (40 DC) Sl st into top of the beginning dc.
Round 6: Ch 2, Dc in same stitch and in each stitch around. Sl st into top of beginning dc. (40 DC)
Round 7: Repeat Round 6 (40 DC)
We are now going to stop working in the round and work back and forth by turning our work from here on.
Row 1: Ch 4 (DOES count as a trbl stitch now), trbl in same stitch. Dc in next 34 stitches. 2 Trbl in next stitch. Leave the remaining 4 stitches unworked, you will be turning your work now. (38 Stitches).
Row 2: Ch 4, turn. Trbl in same stitch as ch 4. 2 Trbl in next 2 stitches. Dc into next stitch. Hdc in next 30 stitches. DC in next stitch. 2 Trbl in next 3 stitches. (44 stitches)
Row 3: Ch 4, turn. Trbl in same stitch as ch 4. 2 Trbl in next stitch. 1 Trbl in next stitch. 1 Dc in next 2 stitches. Hdc in next 34 sts. Dc in next 2sts. Trbl in next. 2 trbl in next two sts. (48 sts)
Row 4: Ch 4, turn. Trbl in same st. Trbl in the next stitch. Dc in next 44 stitches. Trbl in next stitch. 2 Trbl in last stitch. (50 sts)
Row 5: Ch 4, turn. Trbl in same stitch. Trble in next stitch. Dc in next 46 stitches. Trbl in next stitch. 2 trbl in next stitch. (52 stitches)
This is where I ran out of yarn from the first skein. If you want to trim your hat in a different color or make tassels in a different color, you sure can.
I attached a new skein of yarn and started where I left off from the other at the end of Row 5. Now you will RSC in each stitch across the front of the hoodie hat. Make sure when you get to the other end of the front, put 2 rsc in the corner stitch. Now you will chain 1 and turn your work. You will be working along the back bottom edge of the hoodie hat. Put one Single Crochet in each stitch or space across. Place your hook where it is comfortable but make sure you do not put too many stitches or too little stitches. Too many stitches will cause your edge to ruffle or bump out. Too little stitches will make it tight and not fit right in the back. I had 36 single crochet stitches on my bottom edge. Sl st join to the beginning edge. Cut yarn and fasten off, weave in your ends.
Now it is time to make the tassels.
I took a book that was about 6” wide and wrapped the yarn around it 20 times. Cut the end and slipped a piece of yarn under one end and tied it very tight. I slid it off the book and cut the loops on the other end (the end that I didn’t tie). I took a long piece of yarn and wrapped it around the top about an inch down from where I tied. I made a tight knot and double tied it after that to make sure it wouldn’t come loose. I trimmed the ends to my liking and then used the tie at the top to attach it to a corner of the hat. I made two more and put one on the top back of the hood where you first started your hat, and the other on the opposite corner of the first one! Tie in all your ends and you are done!
This shawl was made out of need for a pattern that was simple but interesting enough to want to keep working on it. I also wanted a more of a masculine look to it so it can be used for a man or a woman. I feel it fits the needs of what I wanted and I hope you find it pleasing as well. Basic crochet skills are needed as well as a good understanding of cabling stitches.
Red Heart With Love Yarn in the color Pewter
I or 5.5mm crochet hook
Large eye needle to sew in ends
Back Post Double Crochet = Bpdc
Chain = Ch
Double Crochet = DC
Front Post Double Crochet = Fpdc
Front Post Treble (Triple) Crochet – Fptc
Reverse Single Crochet = Rsc
Chain 244 for a shawl with the length of approximately 76 inches. (I thought this would be a good size for a gentleman.) If you want a shawl that is not so long just make sure you chain in multiples of 14+6 for you desired length. Just know that you will need 14 stitches for each cabled side of your shawl. That means whatever number of stitches you put in between the 14 on each end doesn’t really matter as long as you have 14 stitches for each end of your shawl to do the cable pattern.
R1: Dc in 4th chain from hook and in each chain stitch across. Ch 3, turn.
R2: Dc in next stitch, Fpdc in the next two stitches. Dc in next two stitches. Skip next two stitches, Fptc around next two stitches. Fptc around first skipped stitch, fptc around next skipped stitch. Dc in next two stitches. Fpdc in next two stitches. Dc in next 216 stitches. Fpdc around next two stitches. Dc in next two stitches. Skip next 2 stitches. Fptc around next stitch after the 2 skipped stitches. Fptc around next stitch. Fptc around first skipped stitch. Fptc around next skipped stitch. Dc in next two stitches. Fpdc around next two stitches. Dc in last two stitches. Chain 3, turn.
R3: Dc in first stitch. Bpdc around next two stitches. Dc in next two stitches. Bpdc around next 4 stitches. Dc in next two stitches. Bpdc in next two stitches. Dc in next 216 stitches. Bpdc around next two stitches. Dc in next two stitches. Bpdc around next 4 stitches. Dc in next 2 stitches. Bpdc in next two stitches. Dc in last two stitches. Chain 3, turn.
You will repeat row 2 and 3 until you reach the height of the shawl that you want. For my shawl I did 38 rows and that gave it a height of approximately 19 1/2 inches. You will want to end on a row that is the cable side of your shawl. The edging is a Rsc stitch in each space around the entire shawl and two Rsc in the corner stitches. This stitches gives your shawl and very finished look and it goes nicely with the cabling in the project.
Thank you and enjoy!
I used an I Hook and Worsted Weight Yarn (Red Heart White)
I bought the gem stone at Walmart, they come in a pack of three
The silver ribbon I also bought at Walmart
Start by chaining 39 join with slip stitch to form the circle and chain 1.
Single crochet in each stitch around, join with slip stitch into first chain 1.
Chain 3, double crochet in each stitch around, join with slip stitch into top of beginning chain 3.
Chain 1, single crochet in each stitch around, join with slip stitch to beginning chain 1.
Chain 3, dc 2 times into same stitch as your chain 3 started, chain 2, dc three more times in same stitch.
Skip 2 stitches, slip stitch into the next stitch. Skip two stitches and double crochet three times into the next stitch, chain 2, 3 more double crochet into same stitch. Repeat all the way around.
Slip stitch into last stitch available and also into the beginning chain 3 to join them all together.
Slip stitch up to the top of the peak, 2 single crochet into that chain 2 space, chain 2 and slip stitch into the first chain (as if to make a picot), 2 more single crochet into chain 2 space. Slip stitch down the valley and back up to the next peak and repeat each peak the same.
Slip stitch down to your beginning and fasten off and weave in your ends.
The ribbon I start weaving in at the front of the crown. I do not have it show on the first three below the center peak (this is where the button goes) So I go around one side weaving the yarn up three and then down three. After I get one side done I go back to the front and get the ribbon from the other side and repeat the same process on the other side and have the ribbon ends meet in the back toward the inside of the crown so it will not be seen for pictures. I loosely tie it so that it can fit more than one baby 😀 I clip the ends so that they cannot be seen from the outside.
The button I start in the front of the crown at the center of one of the crown peaks. You just use the same yarn and fasten it to the middle one of the three double chains.
There ya go, you can crown your king or queen!
~Spiffy Leg Warmers for Newborns~
Link to PDF:Spiffy Leg Warmers for Newborns
Using Worsted Weight Yarn of Your Choice
I used Red Heart in Soft White and Caron Simply Soft in Rose and Grey
US Size 5 or 3.75mm Double Pointed Needles
Using your main color of yarn cast on 21 stitches in any preferred cast on method you want. I used long tail cast on.
Divide those stitches on 3 of your needles.
Working in a 1×1 rib knit and purl all the way around for 4 rows.
Work on round of a knit row increasing one stitch per needle so that you end up with 24 stitches total. (Do not cut yarn you will be carrying up your yarn to the next stripe rows, there is no need for all that weaving in ends! )
Switch to your first stripe color and knit around for 3 rows.
Switch back to your main color and knit 4 rows.
Switch back to your stripe color and knit 3 rows.
Switch back to your main color and knit 4 rows.
Switch back to your stripe color and knit 3 rows.
Change to your main color and work 1 knit row.
Working in your 1×1 rib, work the row and decrease each needle one stitch so that you end up with 21 total stitches again.
The next 3 rows work in your 1×1 rib. Bind off.
I bound off in the normal way but you can bind off in any manner you like.
Weave in your ends.
My finished work was approximately 4 1/2 inches long and about 4 inches in diameter. This should fit a newborn baby from ankle to knee easily. Enjoy this pattern and feel free to sell anything you make from it but do not sell the pattern as it was intended to be free of charge.
Pattern is ©Spiffyniftyriffic
The Nifty Nose Warmer
One size will fit most, if you have a smaller person to fit just make your ear loops less chains.
With any worsted weight yarn and a G crochet hook
Nose warmer is worked in the round
Leave about a 8 inch tail when starting this project. That ensures you will have enough end to weave in the ear loop properly.
Chain 4, slip stitch into the first chain to form a ring.
Chain 3, Double crochet seven times into ring. Join with slip stitch into top of beginning chain 3.
Chain 3, Double crochet in same stitch as chain 3 started (your join from previous row) and then double crochet into each stitch around. Join with slip stitch into top of the beginning chain 3.
Chain 2, Half double crochet into next stitch. 2 half double crochet into next stitch, 1 half double crochet into next stitch and continue that all the way around. Join with slip stitch into top of beginning chain 2.
Slip stitch over two stitches and chain 50, join into same stitch as starting that chain 50.
This forms your loop to put around the ear.
Slip stitch around nose warmer to the opposite side. If you fold the nose warmer in half you will see exactly where the two sides will be across from eachother. Chain 50 and slip stitch into same stitch as start of chain 50. Slip stitch around to first ear loop and cut yarn and pull through.
Now you have to weave in your ends. What I do to make it look finished off is I take the yarn needle and thread the yarn into the back (inside) of nose warmer and poke it up right where your first chain 50 started, poke it back into where you slip stitched your chain 50 to make the ear loop and weave in your end to the back of the work very well to keep your nose warmer in tact and secure if it gets washed. Your other end was from the beginning up top where you formed the ring. That I do the same thing on the other side where you made your ear loop, I just weave the yarn here and there until I reach the first slip stitch to the chain 50 and go the same thing as the other side.
Wrap the ear loops around your ears and enjoy a warm nifty nose warmer 🙂